There are 120 messages in this thread.
You are currently looking at messages 40 to 50.
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:05:24 -0500, hls wrote: > Husqvarna, and some other chain saws, have had problems with the > plastic gas line inside the gas tank cracking. Thanks for the tips. This is apparently a Poulan motor in the Craftsman chain saw. The three fuel lines appear clear and unbroken. Chain saw is only a year old. Fuel filter appears unclogged when I blow on it and has no visible deposits. It's bright white. When I press the bulb, gas flows (I can tell because I emptied it accidentally while I was holding it in my hands and it filled right up with gas). Gas is new. Mix is new. I'm working on the carb screw as I type ...
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:10:45 -0700, SF Man <l...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 05:05:59 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote: >> You will have to ground the spark plug which isn't easy > >I thought the same thing. It's hard enough to START the thing, with one >foot in the base of the handle, one hand on the top handle, and the other >pulling the cord. > >But, it turned out to be (accidentally) easy ... because I had removed the >plug to test it. Putting the chain saw on the shop bench, turning the >lights off, and pulling the cord was easy (sans compression). > >It sparks like a champ. Thanks for teaching me that trick. Do you recall the color of the spark? A yellow/orange is a weak spark (bad plug gap or weak ignition). A bright blue color with a loud "snap snap" is what to look for.
On 8/19/2010 2:57 PM, SF Man wrote: > > Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman > 358.351.800 18 inch chain saw? > > Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc > chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new, > I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman > chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling > the string. > > The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got > only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now > won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only > runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't > start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because > I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog > chainsaw?). > > Anyway, I'm stuck with it. > > I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a > newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasoline:oil mixture in the tank; but it's > STILL hard to start. > > Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press > the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke > to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more > often than not, it does not start. > > I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to > tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is. > > Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman > 358.351.800 18 inch chain saw? I once showed a friend of mine a good way to check the ignition of a two cycle engine. I stuck an air hose into the empty spark plug hole and pressurized the cylinder then pulled the starter rope. The little motor ran happily on compressed air and the ignition system put out a nice big spark. It blew his mind (no pun). We set all of the needle valves in accordance with the manual, it indicated the number of turns the needle valves needed to be backed off from being fully seated. Of course, we cleaned everything first, making sure nothing was stopped up. After all our machinations, the little two cycle started on the first pull. TDD
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:05:49 -0700, SF Man wrote: > I screwed it out 1 1/2 turns. Oh oh. I read warnings about running two strokes too rich or at wide-open throttle. I run it at full throttle all the time (if I don't, it stalls). Is that bad? Anyway, I figured I'd better google for Poulan carb adjustment procedures: http://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/lawns/1641-re-request-poulan-chainsaw-carb-tune-up-procedure.html Will try that. BTW, I learned in this video that the low and high have H and L stamped on them. Will look for that first. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:14:12 -0700, Oren wrote: > A bright blue color with a loud "snap snap" is what to look for. Bluish yellow. No snapping sound though. Am watching this video to learn how to adjust the carb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:18:07 -0700, SF Man wrote: > Am watching this video to learn how to adjust the carb: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs Doh. I just realized the "L", "H", and "T" embossed on the cover that I first removed indicated the low, high, and ... hmmm ... I guess "throttle" adjustment screws? Both the "L" and the "H" pin are NOT screws. Clearly they are not designed to be adjusted. Again, this may be a California (smog) thing. To discourage you from touching them, there is a point instead of a screw slot; and they have a housing around them just so you can't easily get to them. The "T" screw is easy to get to, even with all the covers on as there is a slot in the plastic to allow access. Do you think the "T" is for throttle?
"SF Man" <l...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:i4pc0o$plf$1...@speranza.aioe.org... > On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:05:24 -0500, hls wrote: >> Husqvarna, and some other chain saws, have had problems with the >> plastic gas line inside the gas tank cracking. > > Thanks for the tips. > > This is apparently a Poulan motor in the Craftsman chain saw. > > The three fuel lines appear clear and unbroken. Chain saw is only a year > old. Fuel filter appears unclogged when I blow on it and has no visible > deposits. It's bright white. When I press the bulb, gas flows (I can tell > because I emptied it accidentally while I was holding it in my hands and > it > filled right up with gas). > > Gas is new. Mix is new. > > I'm working on the carb screw as I type ... It is not easy to see the crack in the line. Several models of chainsaws have had the problem, and it is not at all unusual from them to go bad within a year. But the bottom line is to be sure you have fuel and spark, and if either is missing, you have to work backward to locate the problem. Remember the basics...you have to have spark (hot and at the right time), fuel, and compression to have the engine run.
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 11:57:18 -0400, Jim Elbrecht <e...@email.com> wrote: >Red <R...@hotmail.com> wrote: > >>On Aug 21, 7:04 am, "Stormin Mormon" >>
wrote: >> >>> Same as lawn mower. Take the spark plug out, and hold it to a metal >>> part of the body. >> >>Hard to do on a chainsaw while holding the saw, the plug, the pull >>cord, and snatching all at the same time. >> >>I made a short cord to do the trick. Has a standard alligator clip on >>one end and a battery cable clip on the other. The battery cable clip >>clamps to the spark plug body and the alligator clip to any convenient >>piece of metal on the motor. That frees up my hands for other things >>and keeps me from getting shocked. > > >They also make a spark plug tester that even allows you to adjust a >gap to see if your spark is strong enough-- Unless you do it often, >knowing whether you just have a spark-- or a 'strong spark' - is >guesswork. > Grand Daddy taught me to check for the color of the spark. A yellow/orange is a weak plug, gap or ignition. Change the gap on the plug first and try again. A bright blue, that snaps is a strong spark. (like a gas stove - blue flames are hotter than orange flames) -- shade tree mechanic
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:14:12 -0700, Oren wrote: > Do you recall the color of the spark? A yellow/orange is a weak spark > (bad plug gap or weak ignition). It was a no go when I tried to start it just now. No catching at all. If the spark is yellow mostly, how do I get it to be blue? I'll buy a new plug, but, how do I fix a weak ignition?
I just realized that just before it stopped running, it ran really really fast. Of course, I had protective headgear on, but, even then, thinking back, it was running really fast. I wonder ... I wonder if I blew the rings somehow. When I put my finger over the hole after removing the spark plug, and pulled the starter cord, there was only a small puff. Noticeable. But small. Do you think compression might be the problem?