I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware. 
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof.  It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something.  I'm thinking about 
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left 
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom. 
Kind of like an upside down U.  Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears 
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and 
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay 

On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 20:54:09 -0700, djay <N...@verizon.net> wrote:
>I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware. 
>So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof.  It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

>I'd like to mount the sucker down with something.  I'm thinking about 
>strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left 
>side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom. 
>Kind of like an upside down U.  Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears 
>down to the floor.

>It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and 
>unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

>Welcome for all comments/ideas?

encapsulate it in concrete

djay wrote:
> I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware. 
> So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof.  It's about 2 X 2 X 2.
> 
> I'd like to mount the sucker down with something.  I'm thinking about 
> strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left 
> side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom. 
> Kind of like an upside down U.  Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears 
> down to the floor.
> 
> It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and 
> unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.
> 
> Welcome for all comments/ideas?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Djay 
> 
> 
How heavy is it? And is it really a safe, or just a fireproof cabinet 
with a combination lock? If it has casters, you can unbolt those and use 
those holes to add a steel plate to the bottom, extending past the 
sides, that you can bolt to the floor. The most secure safe is one 
nobody knows about- hide it in a closet or piece of furniture, with what 
looks like a solid panel in front of it, made out of thin plywood. 
Magnetic catches are great for things like that- you whack the panel 
with your hand to get it to pop off, or put a piece of metal on one spot 
on the back of the panel, and use a felt-covered magnet as the handle to 
pull the panel off without leaving tell-tale marks on it. And whatever 
you do, resist the urge to show it off to friends and relatives. All 
sorts of ways to add a secret compartment to a house, though not as easy 
as the old days when houses had all sorts of built-in cabinetry.

--
aem sends...

On Apr 17, 10:54=A0pm, "djay"  wrote:
> I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
> So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. =A0It's about 2 X 2 X 2.
>
> I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. =A0I'm thinking about
> strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
> side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
> Kind of like an upside down U. =A0Then drill into the slab and bolt the e=
ars
> down to the floor.
>
> It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
> unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.
>
> Welcome for all comments/ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Djay

Did you just buy it, I just bought one at HD that came with brackets
to bolt it down from the inside, check out the safes web site, some
safes have an area made to be drilled through if you use the proper
gasket and bracket.

djay wrote:
> I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
> hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof.  It's about 2 X
> 2 X 2.
> I'd like to mount the sucker down with something.  I'm thinking about
> strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
> left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
> bottom. Kind of like an upside down U.  Then drill into the slab and
> bolt the ears down to the floor.
>
> It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
> and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.
>
> Welcome for all comments/ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for 
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right place, 
and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one had 
a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the 
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the 
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to 
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with hidden 
wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on the safe's 
door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To use the safe 
normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe. If a squint, 
scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your head, 
you don't flip the secret switch.

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes. 
Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet. 
Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin to 
open but get really hot inside.

On Apr 18, 7:31=A0am, "HeyBub"  wrote:
> djay wrote:
> > I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
> > hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. =A0It's about 2 X
> > 2 X 2.
> > I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. =A0I'm thinking about
> > strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
> > left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
> > bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. =A0Then drill into the slab and
> > bolt the ears down to the floor.
>
> > It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
> > and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.
>
> > Welcome for all comments/ideas?
>
> > Thanks!
>
> > Djay
>
> Simple.
>
> Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
> bolts anchored in the floor.
>
> I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right pla=
ce,
> and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one h=
ad
> a bolt anchored in the concrete.
>
> I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
> remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
> fifth block was used to secure the safe.
>
> Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
> make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.
>
> Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with hidd=
en
> wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on the saf=
e's
> door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To use the s=
afe
> normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe. If a squint=
,
> scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your he=
ad,
> you don't flip the secret switch.
>
> A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.
>
> Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes=
.
> Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet.
> Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin=
 to
> open but get really hot inside.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

So my new HD Sentry safe isnt safe? How unsafe is it against theft.

HeyBub wrote:
> djay wrote:
>> I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
>> hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof.  It's about 2 X
>> 2 X 2.
>> I'd like to mount the sucker down with something.  I'm thinking about
>> strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
>> left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
>> bottom. Kind of like an upside down U.  Then drill into the slab and
>> bolt the ears down to the floor.
>>
>> It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
>> and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.
>>
>> Welcome for all comments/ideas?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Djay
> 
> Simple.
> 
> Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for 
> bolts anchored in the floor.
> 
> I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right place, 
> and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one had 
> a bolt anchored in the concrete.
> 
> I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the 
> remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the 
> fifth block was used to secure the safe.
> 
> Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to 
> make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.
> 
> Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with hidden 
> wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on the safe's 
> door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To use the safe 
> normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe. If a squint, 
> scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your head, 
> you don't flip the secret switch.
> 
> A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.
> 
> Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes. 
> Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet. 
> Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin to 
> open but get really hot inside.
> 
> 
But there are a whole class of data rated safes specifically designed to 
be both a security safe and to protect the contents from heat damage.

"aemeijers" <a...@att.net> wrote in message 
news:9QiGl.17$1...@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> djay wrote:
>> I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware. 
>> So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof.  It's about 2 X 2 X 2.
>>
>> I'd like to mount the sucker down with something.  I'm thinking about 
>> strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left 
>> side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom. 
>> Kind of like an upside down U.  Then drill into the slab and bolt the 
>> ears down to the floor.
>>
>> It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and 
>> unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.
>>
>> Welcome for all comments/ideas?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Djay
> How heavy is it? And is it really a safe, or just a fireproof cabinet with 
> a combination lock? If it has casters, you can unbolt those and use those 
> holes to add a steel plate to the bottom, extending past the sides, that 
> you can bolt to the floor. The most secure safe is one nobody knows about- 
> hide it in a closet or piece of furniture, with what looks like a solid 
> panel in front of it, made out of thin plywood. Magnetic catches are great 
> for things like that- you whack the panel with your hand to get it to pop 
> off, or put a piece of metal on one spot on the back of the panel, and use 
> a felt-covered magnet as the handle to pull the panel off without leaving 
> tell-tale marks on it. And whatever you do, resist the urge to show it off 
> to friends and relatives. All sorts of ways to add a secret compartment to 
> a house, though not as easy as the old days when houses had all sorts of 
> built-in cabinetry.
>
> --
> aem sends...

It is right at 100 lbs.  It's a fireproof safe meaning it has the actuator 
arms that
go from the door into the wall of the safe after the lever is turned.
Right now it's in a walk-in closet and blends very well with the rest of the
crap the wife has in there (boxes of Shtuff).
No casters, just 4 ea 1.5" diameter plastic nubs (about 1/8 thick).

Djay 

"AZ Nomad" <a...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote in message 
news:s...@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net...
> On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 20:54:09 -0700, djay <N...@verizon.net> wrote:
>>I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
>>So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof.  It's about 2 X 2 X 2.
>
>>I'd like to mount the sucker down with something.  I'm thinking about
>>strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
>>side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
>>Kind of like an upside down U.  Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
>>down to the floor.
>
>>It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
>>unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.
>
>>Welcome for all comments/ideas?
>
> encapsulate it in concrete
>

That would certainly make it safer!  ;)

"ransley" <M...@Yahoo.com> wrote in message 
news:4...@s20g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 17, 10:54 pm, "djay"  wrote:
> I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
> So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.
>
> I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
> strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
> side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
> Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
> down to the floor.
>
> It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
> unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.
>
> Welcome for all comments/ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Djay

Did you just buy it, I just bought one at HD that came with brackets
to bolt it down from the inside, check out the safes web site, some
safes have an area made to be drilled through if you use the proper
gasket and bracket.

This one didn't come with any mounting hardware...  b 4
I drill into it, I'll call the manufacturer for any tips.  I think
putting holes in it would definitely drop the fire rating?

Djay