I'm trying to waterproof the top edges of some wooden bathroom cabinet doors 
that get dripped on from the sink top. The top edges are beveled at 45 
degree angle to the counter top so the wood is kind of rough rather than 
well finished. The Minwax polyurethane I'm using just sinks into the wood 
and is absorbed rather than drying to form the clear barrier I'm looking 
for.

Is there another product I should try-- or just keep adding additional coats 
of polyurethane? 

On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 09:22:03 -0400, "William Munny"
<b...@bigwhiskey.org> wrote:

>I'm trying to waterproof the top edges of some wooden bathroom cabinet doors 
>that get dripped on from the sink top. The top edges are beveled at 45 
>degree angle to the counter top so the wood is kind of rough rather than 
>well finished. The Minwax polyurethane I'm using just sinks into the wood 
>and is absorbed rather than drying to form the clear barrier I'm looking 
>for.
>
>Is there another product I should try-- or just keep adding additional coats 
>of polyurethane? 
>

Keep adding. 

more coats,end grain will do this .sometimes it will take 3 or 4 coats
"William Munny" <b...@bigwhiskey.org> wrote in message 
news:h6e9ts$hcl$1...@news.albasani.net...
> I'm trying to waterproof the top edges of some wooden bathroom cabinet 
> doors that get dripped on from the sink top. The top edges are beveled at 
> 45 degree angle to the counter top so the wood is kind of rough rather 
> than well finished. The Minwax polyurethane I'm using just sinks into the 
> wood and is absorbed rather than drying to form the clear barrier I'm 
> looking for.
>
> Is there another product I should try-- or just keep adding additional 
> coats of polyurethane?
> 

William Munny wrote:
> I'm trying to waterproof the top edges of some wooden bathroom cabinet doors 
> that get dripped on from the sink top. The top edges are beveled at 45 
> degree angle to the counter top so the wood is kind of rough rather than 
> well finished. The Minwax polyurethane I'm using just sinks into the wood 
> and is absorbed rather than drying to form the clear barrier I'm looking 
> for.
> 
> Is there another product I should try-- or just keep adding additional coats 
> of polyurethane? 
> 
> 
End grain of wood always absorbs more of whatever stain or finish that 
is being applied.  I don't know the product specifically that you are 
using - I've used lots of wood finishes - but, it probably will take two 
or three MORE coats on the end grain than on the rest of the surface, 
and sealing the end grain is a good idea.  Are you refinishing, putting 
in new cabinets, or just sealing up already finished cabinets? Be sure 
to let each coat cure well, not just dry, to avoid bubbling or peeling.

It's a good idea to seal the bottom edges of cabinet and entry doors, 
and to caulk the bottom of wallpaper, as condensation can run down and 
cause bulging/warping of wood or loosening of wallpaper paste.

"William Munny" <b...@bigwhiskey.org> wrote in message 
news:h6e9ts$hcl$1...@news.albasani.net...
> I'm trying to waterproof the top edges of some wooden bathroom cabinet 
> doors that get dripped on from the sink top. The top edges are beveled at 
> 45 degree angle to the counter top so the wood is kind of rough rather 
> than well finished. The Minwax polyurethane I'm using just sinks into the 
> wood and is absorbed rather than drying to form the clear barrier I'm 
> looking for.
>
> Is there another product I should try-- or just keep adding additional 
> coats of polyurethane?

Depending on how much you have now, but may be too late but the first step 
is to burnish the ends.  Take a smooth metal tool, like a shank of a 
screwdriver, and rub it across the end grain.  It smoothes down the fibers 
and takes finish better.  Keep adding until it is finally sealed.  I usually 
thin the first coat and then use full strength on the rest.