My house has plywood siding.  It's that reverse board and batten look
stuff in 4x8 sheets.  One of the problems it has is that on an
addition it was run all the way down to the ground.  Unsurprisingly,
the siding wicked water over the years and is rotting and falling
apart along the ground line.

I've dug out the dirt and cleared away the foundation in these areas.
Now I need to repair it.  I could replace every siding panel, but that
would be a lot of work and expense.  What I was thinking instead was
to cut off the bottom 12" of the siding with my circ saw.  Then stick
some z-flashing up there, nail it in through the siding panels, and
then stick a piece of 5/8" 1x12 hardiboard (or equivalent) under the
flashing.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?  Should I be caulking any of
these joints?  I was thinking it at least makes sense to try and caulk
along the back bottom of the hardiboard where it meets the slab so
that space is as closed up as possible.  This way I replace the rotten
stuff, and put back in place something that won't rot.

Thanks for considering my plan.

Oh, to cut the siding off I figured I'd nail a 2x4 to the wall to act
as a guide for my circ saw.  Other ideas welcome.

On May 7, 4:50=A0pm, t...@gmail.com wrote:
> My house has plywood siding. =A0It's that reverse board and batten look
> stuff in 4x8 sheets. =A0One of the problems it has is that on an
> addition it was run all the way down to the ground. =A0Unsurprisingly,
> the siding wicked water over the years and is rotting and falling
> apart along the ground line.

I had the same problem.  A builder cut the bottom 2' off as you are
describing.  He then installed metal drip, like they install over
window and then cut pieces of siding to fit below.  It looks good and
is working out great.  Good luck, let me know if you would like me to
send you a picture of the repair.

On May 7, 4:50=A0pm, t...@gmail.com wrote:
> My house has plywood siding. =A0It's that reverse board and batten look
> stuff in 4x8 sheets. =A0One of the problems it has is that on an
> addition it was run all the way down to the ground. =A0Unsurprisingly,
> the siding wicked water over the years and is rotting and falling
> apart along the ground line.
>
> I've dug out the dirt and cleared away the foundation in these areas.
> Now I need to repair it. =A0I could replace every siding panel, but that
> would be a lot of work and expense. =A0What I was thinking instead was
> to cut off the bottom 12" of the siding with my circ saw. =A0Then stick
> some z-flashing up there, nail it in through the siding panels, and
> then stick a piece of 5/8" 1x12 hardiboard (or equivalent) under the
> flashing.
>
> Does this sound like a reasonable plan? =A0Should I be caulking any of
> these joints? =A0I was thinking it at least makes sense to try and caulk
> along the back bottom of the hardiboard where it meets the slab so
> that space is as closed up as possible. =A0This way I replace the rotten
> stuff, and put back in place something that won't rot.
>
> Thanks for considering my plan.
>
> Oh, to cut the siding off I figured I'd nail a 2x4 to the wall to act
> as a guide for my circ saw. =A0Other ideas welcome.

The plan is okay.  Does the wall framing go right to ground along with
the siding?  Your framing might need some attention.  Is the
insulation wet?

R

t...@gmail.com wrote:
> My house has plywood siding.  It's that reverse board and batten look
> stuff in 4x8 sheets.  One of the problems it has is that on an
> addition it was run all the way down to the ground.  Unsurprisingly,
> the siding wicked water over the years and is rotting and falling
> apart along the ground line.
> 
> I've dug out the dirt and cleared away the foundation in these areas.
> Now I need to repair it.  I could replace every siding panel, but that
> would be a lot of work and expense.  What I was thinking instead was
> to cut off the bottom 12" of the siding with my circ saw.  Then stick
> some z-flashing up there, nail it in through the siding panels, and
> then stick a piece of 5/8" 1x12 hardiboard (or equivalent) under the
> flashing.
> 
> Does this sound like a reasonable plan?  Should I be caulking any of
> these joints?  I was thinking it at least makes sense to try and caulk
> along the back bottom of the hardiboard where it meets the slab so
> that space is as closed up as possible.  This way I replace the rotten
> stuff, and put back in place something that won't rot.
> 
> Thanks for considering my plan.
> 
> Oh, to cut the siding off I figured I'd nail a 2x4 to the wall to act
> as a guide for my circ saw.  Other ideas welcome.
Hi,
I am just curious where in world do they build a house like that? And 
local code permits it?

> The plan is okay. =A0Does the wall framing go right to ground along with
> the siding? =A0Your framing might need some attention. =A0Is the
> insulation wet?

Just about.  The siding overlaps the foundation by just a tiny bit,
but the sill plate is probably only a quarter-inch higher.  So yes,
there may be some framing issues.  If there are I'll deal with them
once I can see them.

> Hi,
> I am just curious where in world do they build a house like that? And
> local code permits it?

No idea if code permitted it.  I'm in Urbana, IL.  Part of the problem
is that the addition was built on an old carport slab.  The slab was
not elevated like the house's foundation, but they didn't do anything
to build it up.  It's idiotic to say the least

Another question: for the z-flashing, should it be a 5/8" deep z-
flashing, like the siding?  Or does it need to be a little deeper so
it hangs out a little bit?

On May 7, 3:50=A0pm, t...@gmail.com wrote:
> My house has plywood siding. =A0It's that reverse board and batten look
> stuff in 4x8 sheets. =A0One of the problems it has is that on an
> addition it was run all the way down to the ground. =A0Unsurprisingly,
> the siding wicked water over the years and is rotting and falling
> apart along the ground line.
>
> I've dug out the dirt and cleared away the foundation in these areas.
> Now I need to repair it. =A0I could replace every siding panel, but that
> would be a lot of work and expense. =A0What I was thinking instead was
> to cut off the bottom 12" of the siding with my circ saw. =A0Then stick
> some z-flashing up there, nail it in through the siding panels, and
> then stick a piece of 5/8" 1x12 hardiboard (or equivalent) under the
> flashing.
>
> Does this sound like a reasonable plan? =A0Should I be caulking any of
> these joints? =A0I was thinking it at least makes sense to try and caulk
> along the back bottom of the hardiboard where it meets the slab so
> that space is as closed up as possible. =A0This way I replace the rotten
> stuff, and put back in place something that won't rot.
>
> Thanks for considering my plan.
>
> Oh, to cut the siding off I figured I'd nail a 2x4 to the wall to act
> as a guide for my circ saw. =A0Other ideas welcome.

No, you need to rethink your plan.  Hardiboard wicks water also and
cannot be installed within 4" of ground or any horizontal surface.
Think PVC lumber instead.  But there again PVC is 3/4" and your
existing paneling is probably narrower than that.  As far as I can
find they do not make z-flashing to fit over 3/4" boards so you will
have to find someone with a metal brake to custom bend you some z-
flashing.

KC

<t...@gmail.com> wrote

> would be a lot of work and expense.  What I was thinking instead was
> to cut off the bottom 12" of the siding with my circ saw.  Then stick
> some z-flashing up there, nail it in through the siding panels, and
> then stick a piece of 5/8" 1x12 hardiboard (or equivalent) under the

Yes, it will work.  You just need to create that gap above the water area. 
The same fellows who vinyl sided my house did a 'patch job' down the street 
much like this.  They did it with a contrasting vinyl and matched the upper 
trim work discretely to it and it looks very very nice.  Done almost 10 
years ago and looks like new. 

on 5/8/2009 1:38 AM (ET) t...@gmail.com wrote the following:
>> Hi,
>> I am just curious where in world do they build a house like that? And
>> local code permits it?
>>     
>
> No idea if code permitted it.  I'm in Urbana, IL.  Part of the problem
> is that the addition was built on an old carport slab.  The slab was
> not elevated like the house's foundation, but they didn't do anything
> to build it up.  It's idiotic to say the least
>   

It should have a PT plate if nothing else. Even a doubled PT plate would 
be better.

> Another question: for the z-flashing, should it be a 5/8" deep z-
> flashing, like the siding?  Or does it need to be a little deeper so
> it hangs out a little bit?
>   


-- 

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

In article 9...@newsfe08.iad>,
 "cshenk" <c...@cox.net> wrote:

> <t...@gmail.com> wrote
> 
> > would be a lot of work and expense.  What I was thinking instead was
> > to cut off the bottom 12" of the siding with my circ saw.  Then stick
> > some z-flashing up there, nail it in through the siding panels, and
> > then stick a piece of 5/8" 1x12 hardiboard (or equivalent) under the
> 
> Yes, it will work.  You just need to create that gap above the water area. 
> The same fellows who vinyl sided my house did a 'patch job' down the street 
> much like this.  They did it with a contrasting vinyl and matched the upper 
> trim work discretely to it and it looks very very nice.  Done almost 10 
> years ago and looks like new. 

You wouldn't have any pictures of that, would you? A friend of mine 
lives in a condo and they're looking at a $3 million tag to replace all 
the T1-11 on 160 units because the bottom couple of inches is rotting.