I have been doing some major renovations on this property and few days ago I 
hired a video inspection company to inspect all my sewer lines to make sure 
they are all ok.  I have reconfigured my drains in each bathroom but the 3" 
main cast iron line was not altered.

The video revealed that there is a lot of corrosion going on with one of the 
lines (I have three independent lines) coming out of the house that merged 
after the driveway into the main cleanout).  It has a lot of buildup and 
scales and the shape of the pipe from the inside is no longer circular but 
more like the inside of a "cave".

One option is to find a way to "rim" out the corroded portions (if it's even 
possible).  The other option suggested by the plumber is to lay a new PVC 
pipe.  This would involve cutting a 72 feet long 8" wide trench along my 4" 
concrete slab, plus a few laterals to tie in from the three bath, each of 
those would vary from 4 feet to 8 feet in length.  Obviously this is a 
drastic approach and the most costly approach.

My question is, what is the life expectancy of a cast iron pipe?  25 years? 
50 years?  100 years?  Mine has been in the ground since 1972 in the hot and 
humid Miami weather with a high water table, near the ocean so water may 
have salt.

It is "normal" cast iron pipe (SV) and not XH if that helps.

Thanks,

MC 

Sorry the subject line is misleading.  I had another related subject I was 
going to post and the titles got cross wired.

I have done a video inspection and the camera revealed that some 
construction debris (tiles, thinset chunks, possible pieces of a toilet 
bowl) was in my 3" line about 3 feet downstream of the toilet flange.  Most 
likely the demolition crew did not cover up the toilet flange when they 
worked and things fell in.

Any idea on how I can get them out?

Thanks,

MC 

It does kind of depend on how big the chunks are, what the chunks 
are made of, and how far you would have to push them.  You might 
try a shop vac to see if you can suck them back up.  This would 
certainly be the very best solution.  If this fails you might use 
a drain  king to see about forcing it on to the city main, but you 
mentioned elsewhere that it might be 75 feet or more.

What did the plumber suggest?  There are retriever heads for a 
plumbers snake, but they would be very dependent on shape and 
material of debris.

-- 
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG  (remove the sevens)
d...@7cox.net



"MiamiCuse" <n...@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
news:w...@dsli.com...
> Sorry the subject line is misleading.  I had another related 
> subject I was going to post and the titles got cross wired.
>
> I have done a video inspection and the camera revealed that some 
> construction debris (tiles, thinset chunks, possible pieces of a 
> toilet bowl) was in my 3" line about 3 feet downstream of the 
> toilet flange.  Most likely the demolition crew did not cover up 
> the toilet flange when they worked and things fell in.
>
> Any idea on how I can get them out?
>
> Thanks,
>
> MC
> 

MiamiCuse <n...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I have been doing some major renovations on this property and few
> days ago I hired a video inspection company to inspect all my sewer
> lines to make sure they are all ok.  I have reconfigured my drains in
> each bathroom but the 3" main cast iron line was not altered.
>
> The video revealed that there is a lot of corrosion going on with one
> of the lines (I have three independent lines) coming out of the house
> that merged after the driveway into the main cleanout).  It has a lot
> of buildup and scales and the shape of the pipe from the inside is no
> longer circular but more like the inside of a "cave".
>
> One option is to find a way to "rim" out the corroded portions (if
> it's even possible).  The other option suggested by the plumber is to
> lay a new PVC pipe.  This would involve cutting a 72 feet long 8"
> wide trench along my 4" concrete slab, plus a few laterals to tie in
> from the three bath, each of those would vary from 4 feet to 8 feet
> in length.  Obviously this is a drastic approach and the most costly
> approach.

If you are going to have to replace the sewer lateral, it may be less costly 
and less difficult to reroute the three pipes and the main lateral so that 
as little as possible runs the length of the driveway but runs under lawn 
and only need to angle over to tie into the city owned portion of the run. 

EXT wrote:
> MiamiCuse <n...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> I have been doing some major renovations on this property and few
>> days ago I hired a video inspection company to inspect all my sewer
>> lines to make sure they are all ok.  I have reconfigured my drains in
>> each bathroom but the 3" main cast iron line was not altered.
>>
>> The video revealed that there is a lot of corrosion going on with one
>> of the lines (I have three independent lines) coming out of the house
>> that merged after the driveway into the main cleanout).  It has a lot
>> of buildup and scales and the shape of the pipe from the inside is no
>> longer circular but more like the inside of a "cave".
>>
>> One option is to find a way to "rim" out the corroded portions (if
>> it's even possible).  The other option suggested by the plumber is to
>> lay a new PVC pipe.  This would involve cutting a 72 feet long 8"
>> wide trench along my 4" concrete slab, plus a few laterals to tie in
>> from the three bath, each of those would vary from 4 feet to 8 feet
>> in length.  Obviously this is a drastic approach and the most costly
>> approach.
> 
> If you are going to have to replace the sewer lateral, it may be less 
> costly and less difficult to reroute the three pipes and the main 
> lateral so that as little as possible runs the length of the driveway 
> but runs under lawn and only need to angle over to tie into the city 
> owned portion of the run.
Speaking from experience- bite the bullet and get it all over with. 
Replace the whole thing. Follow the cheapest layout, which may not be 
the same as what is down there now.

--
aem sends...

"MiamiCuse" <n...@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
news:n...@dsli.com...
>I have been doing some major renovations on this property and few days ago 
>I hired a video inspection company to inspect all my sewer lines to make 
>sure they are all ok.  I have reconfigured my drains in each bathroom but 
>the 3" main cast iron line was not altered.
>
> The video revealed that there is a lot of corrosion going on with one of 
> the lines (I have three independent lines) coming out of the house that 
> merged after the driveway into the main cleanout).  It has a lot of 
> buildup and scales and the shape of the pipe from the inside is no longer 
> circular but more like the inside of a "cave".
>
> One option is to find a way to "rim" out the corroded portions (if it's 
> even possible).

Why not have a company like Roto Rooter clean out pipes?  They also have 
drain cameras.
You should be able to show them your tape and get there opinion.

http://www.rotorooter.com/residential/videocameralineinspection.php


The other option suggested by the plumber is to lay a new PVC
> pipe.  This would involve cutting a 72 feet long 8" wide trench along my 
> 4" concrete slab, plus a few laterals to tie in from the three bath, each 
> of those would vary from 4 feet to 8 feet in length.  Obviously this is a 
> drastic approach and the most costly approach.
>
> My question is, what is the life expectancy of a cast iron pipe?  25 
> years? 50 years?  100 years?  Mine has been in the ground since 1972 in 
> the hot and humid Miami weather with a high water table, near the ocean so 
> water may have salt.

I read on a website that 50 to 100+ years is possible, but it depends on the 
quality (thickness) of the original pipe.  Older pipe was thicker, some 
newer pipe was made thinner to cut costs.

You could get bids for cleaning and replacement, I'm betting the cleaning 
would be a lot cheaper.

Cheers,
Jim 

"Jim" <N...@yahoo.com> wrote in message 
news:4JKRl.71446$u...@newsfe20.iad...
>
> "MiamiCuse" <n...@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
> news:n...@dsli.com...
>>I have been doing some major renovations on this property and few days ago 
>>I hired a video inspection company to inspect all my sewer lines to make 
>>sure they are all ok.  I have reconfigured my drains in each bathroom but 
>>the 3" main cast iron line was not altered.
>>
>> The video revealed that there is a lot of corrosion going on with one of 
>> the lines (I have three independent lines) coming out of the house that 
>> merged after the driveway into the main cleanout).  It has a lot of 
>> buildup and scales and the shape of the pipe from the inside is no longer 
>> circular but more like the inside of a "cave".
>>
>> One option is to find a way to "rim" out the corroded portions (if it's 
>> even possible).
>
> Why not have a company like Roto Rooter clean out pipes?  They also have 
> drain cameras.
> You should be able to show them your tape and get there opinion.
>
> http://www.rotorooter.com/residential/videocameralineinspection.php
>

Well I already did.  Actually had two opinions so far.  One suggested 
replacement, but again, sometimes it's hard to tell if they say what they 
say becuase it's the real situation, or because they wanted to do the repair 
work they are recommending.  The next one says the pipe has a lot of 
corrosions and build up and need to be cleaned.  However, it's not your 
normal grease or junk in the pipe, this is "icicles looking" formation on 
the inside surface of the pipe formed by the corrosion and needs to be cut 
out with specialized nozzles, which in itself may cut or damage the pipe if 
not done right.  So yes, cleaning is an option, with special nozzle cuts 
($1000 minimum for 1 hour), followed by snaking ($300), followed by hudrojet 
from downstream ($500), followed by video inspection ($600) and then see if 
I need to replace the line (which by then if I decide to I am already $2500 
in the hole).  I guess I am between a cast iron pipe and a hard place.

>
> The other option suggested by the plumber is to lay a new PVC
>> pipe.  This would involve cutting a 72 feet long 8" wide trench along my 
>> 4" concrete slab, plus a few laterals to tie in from the three bath, each 
>> of those would vary from 4 feet to 8 feet in length.  Obviously this is a 
>> drastic approach and the most costly approach.
>>
>> My question is, what is the life expectancy of a cast iron pipe?  25 
>> years? 50 years?  100 years?  Mine has been in the ground since 1972 in 
>> the hot and humid Miami weather with a high water table, near the ocean 
>> so water may have salt.
>
> I read on a website that 50 to 100+ years is possible, but it depends on 
> the quality (thickness) of the original pipe.  Older pipe was thicker, 
> some newer pipe was made thinner to cut costs.
>
> You could get bids for cleaning and replacement, I'm betting the cleaning 
> would be a lot cheaper.
>
> Cheers,
> Jim
> 

One additional question...

If I do make a cut in my slab that is 8" wide, and 72 feet long (a straight 
cut), how would this affect the structural integrity of my monolithic slab?

I heard of VAC-CON or Core Drilling as methods to create holes underground, 
are those applicable methods here for residential 3" line?  but then again, 
I don't know where other utilities are there are other deck drain and water 
supply lines under the house.

MC 

On May 23, 9:52=A0am, "MiamiCuse"  wrote:
> One additional question...
>
> If I do make a cut in my slab that is 8" wide, and 72 feet long (a straig=
ht
> cut), how would this affect the structural integrity of my monolithic sla=
b?

If the existing driveway is in good condition without cracks or any
serious note, not much.  I'd get it over with, cut the driveway, run
the line(s) and then fill in the cuts with brick.  You were asking
earlier about how to edge your driveway - the brick would be one way
to tie it in.

> I heard of VAC-CON or Core Drilling as methods to create holes undergroun=
d,
> are those applicable methods here for residential 3" line? =A0but then ag=
ain,
> I don't know where other utilities are there are other deck drain and wat=
er
> supply lines under the house.

You're in FL, and I'm not sure what sort of soil you have - presumably
sand - so you might have a problem with boring through the soil under
the driveway.  The sand might keep collapsing.  The local contractors
specializing in that stuff will have better information on what's
standard in your area.

R

RicodJour:

The cut in the slab is for the inside of the house.  The driveway is not a 
problem was I can find an alternate bath to tie in outside.  I may need to 
cut the inside building slab for a 72 feet long trench 8" wide to install a 
new 3" PVC main.

I did ask about a wall around the driveway which is a different property I 
have.  That project I finished will post pics here soon.

This is a totally different nightmare...

MC


"RicodJour" <r...@worldemail.com> wrote in message 
news:9...@q14g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
On May 23, 9:52 am, "MiamiCuse"  wrote:
> One additional question...
>
> If I do make a cut in my slab that is 8" wide, and 72 feet long (a 
> straight
> cut), how would this affect the structural integrity of my monolithic 
> slab?

If the existing driveway is in good condition without cracks or any
serious note, not much.  I'd get it over with, cut the driveway, run
the line(s) and then fill in the cuts with brick.  You were asking
earlier about how to edge your driveway - the brick would be one way
to tie it in.

> I heard of VAC-CON or Core Drilling as methods to create holes 
> underground,
> are those applicable methods here for residential 3" line? but then again,
> I don't know where other utilities are there are other deck drain and 
> water
> supply lines under the house.

You're in FL, and I'm not sure what sort of soil you have - presumably
sand - so you might have a problem with boring through the soil under
the driveway.  The sand might keep collapsing.  The local contractors
specializing in that stuff will have better information on what's
standard in your area.

R