My very large plum tree is north of my tomato plot and the branches
overhang the northern most tomato plants (the trench for the tomatoes
runs north and south). Even if and when I trim the tree boughs (so
sunlight isn't intercepted), the roots invade the root space of the
northern most 1-2 tomato plants unless I insert barriers to keep the
plum tree roots out. Unless I block tree root access, the northern-most
tomato plant or two are pretty scrawny. Last year, the barrier was
fairly effective, it will be less so this year because the thin veneer
plywood material is decomposing in spite of the wood preservative I
applied when inserted last year.

I'm looking for a material I can use for a root barrier that will last a
few years, maybe last indefinitely. Can I pick up something at Home
Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware that I can maybe cut into pieces with a
jigsaw and use for a root barrier that will last a while?

The trench I dig for my tomatoes is generally about 2 feet deep, because
once I get to that depth (I virtually always do this some time in March)
the trench has standing water when I get to about 2 feet. The soil is
pretty heavily clay, so I work in loads of compost when I refill the
trench, which I make myself. The barriers I've been putting in are about
2 feet (maybe a bit more) from top to bottom. 

I might remove the tree, but of course that's a BIG job. Suggestions
appreciated!

Dan


Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

Dan Musicant wrote:
...

> I might remove the tree, but of course that's a BIG job. Suggestions
> appreciated!
...

Move the tomatoes...

--

In article <n...@4ax.com>,
 Dan Musicant <m...@privacy.net> wrote:

> My very large plum tree is north of my tomato plot and the branches
> overhang the northern most tomato plants (the trench for the tomatoes
> runs north and south). Even if and when I trim the tree boughs (so
> sunlight isn't intercepted), the roots invade the root space of the
> northern most 1-2 tomato plants unless I insert barriers to keep the
> plum tree roots out. Unless I block tree root access, the northern-most
> tomato plant or two are pretty scrawny. Last year, the barrier was
> fairly effective, it will be less so this year because the thin veneer
> plywood material is decomposing in spite of the wood preservative I
> applied when inserted last year.
> 
> I'm looking for a material I can use for a root barrier that will last a
> few years, maybe last indefinitely. Can I pick up something at Home
> Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware that I can maybe cut into pieces with a
> jigsaw and use for a root barrier that will last a while?
> 
> The trench I dig for my tomatoes is generally about 2 feet deep, because
> once I get to that depth (I virtually always do this some time in March)
> the trench has standing water when I get to about 2 feet. The soil is
> pretty heavily clay, so I work in loads of compost when I refill the
> trench, which I make myself. The barriers I've been putting in are about
> 2 feet (maybe a bit more) from top to bottom. 
> 
> I might remove the tree, but of course that's a BIG job. Suggestions
> appreciated!
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

Dig another trench and pour concrete with rebar or the reinforcement 
mesh.
-- 
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the 
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 11:41:28 -0700, Dan Musicant <m...@privacy.net>
wrote:

>My very large plum tree is north of my tomato plot and the branches
>overhang the northern most tomato plants (the trench for the tomatoes
>runs north and south). Even if and when I trim the tree boughs (so
>sunlight isn't intercepted), the roots invade the root space of the
>northern most 1-2 tomato plants unless I insert barriers to keep the
>plum tree roots out. Unless I block tree root access, the northern-most
>tomato plant or two are pretty scrawny. Last year, the barrier was
>fairly effective, it will be less so this year because the thin veneer
>plywood material is decomposing in spite of the wood preservative I
>applied when inserted last year.
>
>I'm looking for a material I can use for a root barrier that will last a
>few years, maybe last indefinitely. Can I pick up something at Home
>Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware that I can maybe cut into pieces with a
>jigsaw and use for a root barrier that will last a while?
>
>The trench I dig for my tomatoes is generally about 2 feet deep, because
>once I get to that depth (I virtually always do this some time in March)
>the trench has standing water when I get to about 2 feet. The soil is
>pretty heavily clay, so I work in loads of compost when I refill the
>trench, which I make myself. The barriers I've been putting in are about
>2 feet (maybe a bit more) from top to bottom. 
>
>I might remove the tree, but of course that's a BIG job. Suggestions
>appreciated!
>
>Dan
>
>
>Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

Consider a _ Bamboo Rhizome Root Barrier_ *

"ProPlas® Bamboo Barrier Film has proven to be an effective material
to prevent the unwanted spread of bamboo."

At least 40 mil.

http://www.professionalplastics.com/BAMBOOBARRIERFILM

Perhaps even a pond liner would work.

Dan Musicant wrote:
> My very large plum tree is north of my tomato plot and the branches
> overhang the northern most tomato plants (the trench for the tomatoes
> runs north and south). Even if and when I trim the tree boughs (so
> sunlight isn't intercepted), the roots invade the root space of the
> northern most 1-2 tomato plants unless I insert barriers to keep the
> plum tree roots out. Unless I block tree root access, the northern-most
> tomato plant or two are pretty scrawny. Last year, the barrier was
> fairly effective, it will be less so this year because the thin veneer
> plywood material is decomposing in spite of the wood preservative I
> applied when inserted last year.
> 
> I'm looking for a material I can use for a root barrier that will last a
> few years, maybe last indefinitely. Can I pick up something at Home
> Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware that I can maybe cut into pieces with a
> jigsaw and use for a root barrier that will last a while?

What about a sheet of acrylic? I use one as a cover on a small pond, 
and it's sturdy enough to hold up to being picked up and put back on 
every day, and having raccoons sitting on it every night. Look for a 
sheet that's thick enough that it won't bend and snap easily. Bonus - 
it's lightweight and easy to handle.

On Apr 7, 11:41=A0am, Dan Musicant  wrote:
> My very large plum tree is north of my tomato plot and the branches
> overhang the northern most tomato plants (the trench for the tomatoes
> runs north and south). Even if and when I trim the tree boughs (so
> sunlight isn't intercepted), the roots invade the root space of the
> northern most 1-2 tomato plants unless I insert barriers to keep the
> plum tree roots out. Unless I block tree root access, the northern-most
> tomato plant or two are pretty scrawny. Last year, the barrier was
> fairly effective, it will be less so this year because the thin veneer
> plywood material is decomposing in spite of the wood preservative I
> applied when inserted last year.
>
> I'm looking for a material I can use for a root barrier that will last a
> few years, maybe last indefinitely. Can I pick up something at Home
> Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware that I can maybe cut into pieces with a
> jigsaw and use for a root barrier that will last a while?
>
> The trench I dig for my tomatoes is generally about 2 feet deep, because
> once I get to that depth (I virtually always do this some time in March)
> the trench has standing water when I get to about 2 feet. The soil is
> pretty heavily clay, so I work in loads of compost when I refill the
> trench, which I make myself. The barriers I've been putting in are about
> 2 feet (maybe a bit more) from top to bottom.
>
> I might remove the tree, but of course that's a BIG job. Suggestions
> appreciated!
>
> Dan
>
> Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

We had a similar issue with neighbors' roots invading.  We used a
scrap piece of metal siding cut with tin snips into a rectangle, and
buried on long edge just below ground level.  Worked for the couple of
years it was in place before we moved, probably will continue to work
for years.

Wondering if the paint/rust that might develop off sheet steel would
be harmful to the tomatoes?  probably no more so than any preservative
that would come your plywood.

In article 
<b...@z4g2000yqa.googlegroups.com>,
 gwandsh <g...@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Apr 7, 11:41 am, Dan Musicant  wrote:
> > My very large plum tree is north of my tomato plot and the branches
> > overhang the northern most tomato plants (the trench for the tomatoes
> > runs north and south). Even if and when I trim the tree boughs (so
> > sunlight isn't intercepted), the roots invade the root space of the
> > northern most 1-2 tomato plants unless I insert barriers to keep the
> > plum tree roots out. Unless I block tree root access, the northern-most
> > tomato plant or two are pretty scrawny. Last year, the barrier was
> > fairly effective, it will be less so this year because the thin veneer
> > plywood material is decomposing in spite of the wood preservative I
> > applied when inserted last year.
> >
> > I'm looking for a material I can use for a root barrier that will last a
> > few years, maybe last indefinitely. Can I pick up something at Home
> > Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware that I can maybe cut into pieces with a
> > jigsaw and use for a root barrier that will last a while?
> >
> > The trench I dig for my tomatoes is generally about 2 feet deep, because
> > once I get to that depth (I virtually always do this some time in March)
> > the trench has standing water when I get to about 2 feet. The soil is
> > pretty heavily clay, so I work in loads of compost when I refill the
> > trench, which I make myself. The barriers I've been putting in are about
> > 2 feet (maybe a bit more) from top to bottom.
> >
> > I might remove the tree, but of course that's a BIG job. Suggestions
> > appreciated!
> >
> > Dan
> >
> > Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
> 
> We had a similar issue with neighbors' roots invading.  We used a
> scrap piece of metal siding cut with tin snips into a rectangle, and
> buried on long edge just below ground level.  Worked for the couple of
> years it was in place before we moved, probably will continue to work
> for years.
> 
> Wondering if the paint/rust that might develop off sheet steel would
> be harmful to the tomatoes?  probably no more so than any preservative
> that would come your plywood.

There is always "food grade" paint.
-- 
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the 
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

Dan Musicant wrote:
> My very large plum tree is north of my tomato plot and the branches
> overhang the northern most tomato plants (the trench for the tomatoes
> runs north and south). Even if and when I trim the tree boughs (so
> sunlight isn't intercepted), the roots invade the root space of the
> northern most 1-2 tomato plants unless I insert barriers to keep the
> plum tree roots out. Unless I block tree root access, the
> northern-most tomato plant or two are pretty scrawny. Last year, the
> barrier was fairly effective, it will be less so this year because
> the thin veneer plywood material is decomposing in spite of the wood
> preservative I applied when inserted last year.
>
> I'm looking for a material I can use for a root barrier that will
> last a few years, maybe last indefinitely. Can I pick up something at
> Home Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware that I can maybe cut into
> pieces with a jigsaw and use for a root barrier that will last a
> while?
>
> The trench I dig for my tomatoes is generally about 2 feet deep,
> because once I get to that depth (I virtually always do this some
> time in March) the trench has standing water when I get to about 2
> feet. The soil is pretty heavily clay, so I work in loads of compost
> when I refill the trench, which I make myself. The barriers I've been
> putting in are about 2 feet (maybe a bit more) from top to bottom.
>
> I might remove the tree, but of course that's a BIG job. Suggestions
> appreciated!
>

I have a roll or "root barrier" material that is about 2 feet wide and maybe 
1/32" thick plastic that would work well. So it is available somewhere. Maybe a 
nursery? You could use plastic or fiberglass roofing material (corrugated 
roofing?)
> Dan
>
>
> Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net 

On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 12:02:47 -0700, Oren <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote:

:On Wed, 07 Apr 2010 11:41:28 -0700, Dan Musicant <m...@privacy.net>
:wrote:
:
:>My very large plum tree is north of my tomato plot and the branches
:>overhang the northern most tomato plants (the trench for the tomatoes
:>runs north and south). Even if and when I trim the tree boughs (so
:>sunlight isn't intercepted), the roots invade the root space of the
:>northern most 1-2 tomato plants unless I insert barriers to keep the
:>plum tree roots out. Unless I block tree root access, the northern-most
:>tomato plant or two are pretty scrawny. Last year, the barrier was
:>fairly effective, it will be less so this year because the thin veneer
:>plywood material is decomposing in spite of the wood preservative I
:>applied when inserted last year.
:>
:>I'm looking for a material I can use for a root barrier that will last a
:>few years, maybe last indefinitely. Can I pick up something at Home
:>Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware that I can maybe cut into pieces with a
:>jigsaw and use for a root barrier that will last a while?
:>
:>The trench I dig for my tomatoes is generally about 2 feet deep, because
:>once I get to that depth (I virtually always do this some time in March)
:>the trench has standing water when I get to about 2 feet. The soil is
:>pretty heavily clay, so I work in loads of compost when I refill the
:>trench, which I make myself. The barriers I've been putting in are about
:>2 feet (maybe a bit more) from top to bottom. 
:>
:>I might remove the tree, but of course that's a BIG job. Suggestions
:>appreciated!
:>
:>Dan
:>
:>
:>Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
:
:Consider a _ Bamboo Rhizome Root Barrier_ *
:
:"ProPlas® Bamboo Barrier Film has proven to be an effective material
:to prevent the unwanted spread of bamboo."
:
:At least 40 mil.
:
:http://www.professionalplastics.com/BAMBOOBARRIERFILM
:
:Perhaps even a pond liner would work.

This looks very interesting. It's expensive, though. If bought at this
link, the minimum is 2' x 25' of 40mm. As it happens, I also have a
problem with bamboo from the neighbor's hard, but I've just lived with
the problem for many years. It would be a ton of work to install a
barrier at the property line to keep out the bamboo roots. I don't let
any of that bamboo get anywhere above ground, but there's no keeping the
roots from invading. Unless, I install a root barrier.

In fact I only need a maximum of 10' of the root barrier to take care of
the tomato vs plum tree problem. I figure I can probably score 10' of
this or similar (they say it's polyetheylene) locally (I'm in Berkeley),
or close to it,.

Dan



Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net

On Wed, 7 Apr 2010 12:48:23 -0700 (PDT), gwandsh <g...@gmail.com>
wrote:

:We had a similar issue with neighbors' roots invading.  We used a
:scrap piece of metal siding cut with tin snips into a rectangle, and
:buried on long edge just below ground level.  Worked for the couple of
:years it was in place before we moved, probably will continue to work
:for years.
:
:Wondering if the paint/rust that might develop off sheet steel would
:be harmful to the tomatoes?  probably no more so than any preservative
:that would come your plywood.

I actually have a sheet of aluminum, it being a sign I found. It would
undoubtedly work, but I'd have to cut it (I think it's  bigger than 2'
wide), but it's not enough. I figure I need around 20 square feet. Well,
at least 12.

I was thinking some kind of plastic, but plastic sheeting sounds like it
might work. As long as it doesn't break or crack, that is.

Dan


Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net